The Birth of Coach: Modest Roots of Fine Craftsmanship

Established in 1941, Manhattan Leather Bags (the predecessor of Coach) started its operations in Manhattan, New York. The company started with humble beginnings – six artisans running a family business to produce high-quality leather goods, such as wallets and billfolds. By adopting only the best materials and top-notch craftsmanship, the artisans laid a sturdy foundation for what would eventually become a distinguished American luxury brand.

Coach went into a phase of significant expansion in the 1960s and 70s. In 1961, leather veterans Lillian and Miles Cahn took over Coach, with the couple playing key roles in turning the small workshop into an established household name. Miles Cahn pioneered the development of products that were both fashionable and durable by using innovative leather treatments previously only used to make baseball gloves. At the same time, Lillian Cahn designed Coach’s first handbags for women, paving the way for Coach’s multi-product development.

In 1962, Coach hired Bonnie Cashin, an innovative designer who would bring a new style to the brand. Cashin introduced several signature designs that impact the fashion world to this day, including the brass toggle hardware and the duffle bag. By the mid-1970s, Coach products successfully gained a reputation for both their quality and style across a wide spectrum of consumers, particularly the modern working class of women.

In the 1990s, under the leadership of CEO Lew Frankfort, Coach fought its way into the top tier of fashion with its groundbreaking concept of “affordable luxury”. In an era where women could only choose from high-end designer items or low-quality counterfeit copies, Coach introduced designs that were both high-quality and accessible, making the brand an instant favourite among consumers. In 1985, Coach became part of Sara Lee. This gave the company the capital it needed to further grow in size. 

The Setback of Coach

In the 2000s, however, Coach encountered significant challenges. Once loved for its provision of “affordable luxury”, the brand started to lose its appeal as its products became increasingly accessible – as a matter of fact, too accessible. As Coach products flooded the market, consumers began to see them as ubiquitous. Coach products fell out of the luxury fashion category, with consumers shifting towards other competitors like Tory Burch and Michael Kors, brands that consumers deemed were more exclusive in their offerings.

By the mid-2010s, Coach failed to attract younger consumers entirely. For instance, the iconic “CC” monogram that adorned many of its products became associated with outdated fashion trends, causing consumers to turn away. Coach became increasingly perceived as dated, and unfit for the present.

The Comeback of Coach

But Coach wasn’t going to give up that easily. To solve the aforementioned issues, Coach launched a restructuring plan in 2014, led by new CEO Victor Luis. Several business strategies were adopted. For instance, Coach closed underperforming stores to increase sales and give customers a more exclusive shopping experience. In addition, Coach would use its previously successful products to attract its older, loyal consumers. The ultimate goals were to restore Coach’s standing in the luxury sector and improve overall sales performance.

Despite the strategic shift, the brand continued to struggle to regain the height of its former appeal. Faced with fluctuating sales and a crisis of identity (given the continuous shifts to the brand’s general direction), Coach failed to regain its position as a top-tier fashion brand. Refusing to succumb to such challenges, Coach appointed Stuart Vevers as the company’s new creative director. Vevers became key to restoring originality to the brand by coming up with a series of innovative ideas.

In the following years, Coach underwent a dramatic transformation. Not only did it release multiple new designs, it also adopted a new direction of “expressive luxury”, which highlighted the need for individuality. Coach’s new type of luxury would allow each consumer to connect with the brand’s products and create an emotional bond with the brand’s colourful past. By moving away from its previous focus on “accessible luxury”, Coach aimed to create its unique sense of exclusivity through its distinctive designs that would differentiate the brand from the rest of the market.

One key element of the “expressive luxury” approach was the revival of older designs. A notable example was the Tabby Bag (first launched in the 1970s), which was relaunched to attract younger consumers. Released in 2019, the Tabby Bag quickly attracted a large wave of consumers, especially Gen Z shoppers. In 2021, the Pillow Tabby – a softer and more playful iteration – was released. This helped establish the Tabby Bag as a new fashion icon of the 21st century, with quick sellouts at various Coach stores.

Coach did not stop at product launches. The company made use of digital marketing strategies to attract online consumers following the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Coach further collaborated with celebrities such as Camila Mendes, Lil Nas X, and Paris Hilton, enhancing the brand’s visibility on the red carpet which effectively associated the brand’s image with luxury.

In 2023, Coach launched its eco-friendly branch Coachtopia, which made Coach instantly stand out to environmentally conscious consumers. From handbags to outfits, Coachtopia made all its items from recycled materials, reflecting Coach’s regard for sustainability. Coachtopia was a great commercial success, further boosting Coach’s revenues.

By 2024, Coach had firmly reestablished its position in the fashion industry, marking the success of its comeback. With high-quality craftsmanship, adaptive marketing tactics, and a new emphasis on sustainability, Coach was able to win over a new wave of consumers who embraced the brand for both its past and present.